SURFBREAKER TYPES

SPILLING – ADVANCING LINE OF FOAM – NORMALLY FLAT, MILD OR GENTLE BEACH SLOPE

PLUNGING – ADVANCING WALL OF WATER – PRODUCED BY LONG PERIOD SWELLS – MORE FREQUENT WITH STEEP BEACH SLOPE

SURGING – WATER SURGES UP BEACH FACE – REQUIRES STEEP BEACH SLOPE

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Notes:

Surf - waves that break upon the shore. Surf is classified in three ways: Spilling, Plunging, and Surging. There will often be several types of surf present at one time.

Surf is caused as waves “feel” the bottom -- as they slow down in speed, the surf builds.

Sea Waves - also called wind waves. The result of the wind’s energy being imparted to the sea. The height attained by the local wind generated waves is dependent on wind speed, duration, and length of the fetch (the area over which the wind is blowing). These are short period waves and can diffract into well decks.

Swell Waves - generated by storms from a distant fetch area. Long wavelength waves -- which cause large surf conditions.